Here’s the Beef
By Merrill

Of course the new he-man thing is working for me, nips and tucks aside. So when I was ready to strut - without putting on the dog - I knew exactly where to go. I wanted romantic booths in the cozy darkness. I wanted steak. Iowa steak, rare and lots of it. I wanted aperitifs, but in the neighborhood sense, not in the glitzy Hollywood manner but à la Lankershim Blvd., homestyle with warmth. I didn't want to hear a word from people with food prejudices. Who wants to invite those people out anymore anyway? They come with their lists of what they don't eat. I eat what's on the menu, baby, and I celebrate it. Every hostess wants me.

So where? Alright. The Steak Joynt is everybody's beef dream come true. When was the last time you heard of a baseball cut, sports fans? This is it, the 9th inning of steak: only two to an animal, and only at dinner. Not that you could go wrong with their steak sandwich at lunch time, friend, with those big delicious fries (fresh potatoes, skin still on) and their signature cole slaw. Pack in a martini and your office will look better, I guarantee it. Or how about the Caesar's salad with a homemade dressing that genuinely rocks? What would you say to Angus beef, finely marbled, just the way you like it, dry and aged to perfection. But dinner's the thing for keeping the budget and getting the value. Any place that tells you how many ounces you're getting is a real inflation-beater. Talk about an insider's tip. And let's just say you have one of those veganite friends, okay, he or she can order the freshest grilled fish this side of Santa Monica. This may be a steak house, but they hedge their bets. And the roasted pepper dipping sauce for their magnificent, warm bread is just another secret you heard from me first. Don't forget me when you're a mega-gazillionaire. Until that day, it helps to know about a place that serves delicious cooking at reasonable prices. There's a regular crowd that appreciates a tablecloth and good service without having to get a second mortgage. In fact one good old boy eats there every single day. It's true.

Owner Rona Newman is no stranger to the business. Hubby Herb owns the Oyster House, a fixture in Studio City. She'll pour you her complimentary after-dinner specialty, a mixture of Kahlua and Grand Marnier. She'll make sure you have consistent quality and smooth service. And here's another great thing: the kitchen doesn't close down before the ten o'clock news. How nice to have late meals be possible on our side of town, you know? I mean, I don't like to quote the competition, but the L.A. Weekly called it the “Best Steakhouse,” and sometimes you gotta’ give it up to them when they get a winning idea. I'm a big enough man to do that. Yes I am. The Steak Joynt 4354 Lankershim 818-761-9899.